About Your Suit at Old Jeffrey
At Old Jeffrey, we have a team with over 80 years of accumulated experience that guarantees impeccable workmanship and the use of the highest quality fabrics.
We currently have 3 types of suits :
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Ready-made or Ready-to-Wear follows
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Made to measure follows
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Bespoke follows
1. READY TO WEAR (RTW) SUIT
Our Ready-to-Wear range is a collection of pre-made suits made with 100% Super S110 wool fabrics from the Italian brand Vitale Barberis Canonico, made with a pattern calibrated and perfected by our team of pattern makers.
In this case, each customer's shoulders determine the appropriate size; that is, once the suit model is selected, we recommend the customer's perfect fit across the shoulders. After this step, the garment is adjusted to their body measurements for a perfect fit.
These garments feature high-quality finishes, such as our notched and peak lapels, interlined and unfused interiors, workable buttonholes, and many other details that won't go unnoticed.
“READY TO WEAR” MODELS
We offer both 2-piece and 3-piece suit styles. To see some of our suit styles, click the following link: Ready-Made Suits . We have more styles in store that are not available online.
RECOMMENDED ADVANCE TIME
We recommend coming to Old Jeffrey at least two weeks in advance, as once we've fitted your garment in-store, it would take us approximately one week to work on it.
After the week of fittings, we schedule another fitting. If any additional adjustments are required due to the appearance of small wrinkles and to fine-tune the garment, we would need another week to ensure the garment is perfect.
2. MADE TO MEASURE (MTM) SUIT
In the Made to measure Service , our tailors take measurements using a suit called a "witness," which we have digitized on our central computer, and proceed to make anatomical modifications, modifying the base pattern so that it becomes our client's exclusive pattern.
In this type of suit, absolutely everything can be customized: the shape and width of the lapels, the pocket design, the pants and vest design, as well as choosing all the fittings, such as the lining, the fleece, the buttons and the thread with which these buttons are sewn, as well as embroidering the initials on the inside of the jacket.
“MADE TO MEASURE” OPTIONS
There are countless options within our 2-piece and 3-piece suit styles.
RECOMMENDED ADVANCE TIME
If this option is selected, we recommend coming to Old Jeffrey two months in advance, as it would take five weeks to make the garment. We then schedule a fitting with the client. Shorter delivery times are available on a case-by-case basis and subject to specific requests (please consult our tailoring team directly).
Once the garment is made, we use the first fitting to detect any wrinkles. If any adjustments are required, we would need a full week to carry them out.
3. BESPOKE SUIT
Finally, we present our Bespoke tailoring line , also known as Handmade Measure.
In this case, our tailors take anatomical measurements directly from the client and design the suit with the purest details of traditional bespoke tailoring, that is, hand-stitched buttonholes and stitching, a fully lined interior without any glue or fusing, plain or printed cupro or viscose linings, etc.
After the cutting process, the pieces are assembled using basting stitches and loose stitches. A first fitting, called a "plumb" test, will be done. At this point, we will have the skeleton of the garment—sleeveless in the case of the frock coat and unfinished lengths and widths in the case of the trousers and vest.
Once the "fit" fitting is complete, it's our turn: we work in the workshop to correct details, incorporate the sleeves, and finalize the garment. The customer is then called in for a second "fine-tuning" fitting, and if there are any additional minor details that need correction, a third final fitting will be performed before delivering the perfect garment to the customer.
“BESPOKE” OPTIONS
We work based on a pre-estimated quote, which will be assessed and communicated to the client after their informational appointment. During this time, we will discuss the design and manufacturing requirements. We offer 2-piece and 3-piece formats.
RECOMMENDED ADVANCE TIME
For this type of tailoring, we require at least three months to have the garments finished. Once we take the measurements, we will manually design the client's pattern in our workshop and, subsequently, carry out the manual cutting of the garment.
DIFFERENCES BETWEEN MADE TO MEASURE AND BESPOKE SERVICES
The difference lies mainly in the manufacturing process after the customer's measurements have been taken:
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Making the pattern after taking the client's measurements . In the case of Made to measure tailoring , to obtain the client's pattern, we use samples with a base pattern, against which we make corrections and obtain the client's final pattern. Whereas, in Bespoke tailoring , measurements are taken directly, and the pattern is obtained manually, using calculations and curve generation based on tailor's rulers.
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Fabric cutting . Forum Made to measure tailoring , the pattern obtained for each client is digitized, and the fabric scrap chosen for the garment is cut very precisely using a cutting machine. Meanwhile, in the Bespoke Service , our tailor will cut the garment manually using special tailor's scissors.
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Garment assembly . In the case of Made to measure tailoring , our sewing team consists of 10 people who will carry out the final construction of the garment. In this case, each team member specializes in a particular part of the garment (sleeves, front, etc.), and the garment is finally assembled together. In this process, the stitching is mixed (long stitches with a sewing machine and hand-finished details). In the case of Bespoke artisan tailoring, however, the entire construction will be carried out manually by our specialized tailor.
