About Your Chaqué at Old Jeffrey
At Old Jeffrey we have a Human team with more than 80 years of accumulated experience that guarantee impeccable execution along with the use of the highest quality fabrics.
We currently have 3 types of morning coat:
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morning suit or Ready to Wear
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Chaqué Made to measure
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Chaqué Bespoke
1. READY TO WEAR (RTW) MORNING JACKET
Our modality Ready to wear is a collection of pre-made morning suits with 100% Super S110 wool fabrics from the Italian company Vitale Barberis Canónico: made with a pattern calibrated and perfected by our team of pattern makers.
In this case, the shoulders of each client are what determine the appropriate size; that is, once the model of the morning coat has been selected, we recommend the client the one that fits him/her perfectly around the shoulders. After this step, the garment is adjusted to his/her body measurements so that it fits perfectly.
These are garments with very high quality finishes, such as our notched and spear-point lapels, interlined and non-fused interiors, practicable buttonholes, among many other details that will not go unnoticed.
“READY TO WEAR” MODELS
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Medium grey 3-piece morning suit: Tailcoat, waistcoat and trousers, all in medium grey. There are usually 3 shades of grey: charcoal grey, medium grey and light grey. Charcoal grey is recommended only for evening weddings, light grey is recommended only for daytime weddings, while medium grey is suitable, by protocol, for both daytime and evening weddings. The RRP of this tailcoat model is €895,95 (Tailcoat + Waistcoat + Trousers)
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Navy blue morning suit 3 pieces: Tailcoat, waistcoat and trousers, all in navy blue. This is an increasingly common option. The navy blue morning suit has been gaining ground over the classic morning suit and is a very successful option for both grooms and witnesses. The RRP for this morning suit model is €895,95 (Tailcoat + Waistcoat + Trousers)
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2-piece classic morning suit: black frock coat and grey striped trousers. In this case the waistcoat is not included, since, for this type of morning coat, the combinations of waistcoat selected by customers are many and very varied. The RRP of this morning coat model is €795,95 (Frock Coat + Trousers)
In addition, each season we create new morning suit models that are different from those in our permanent collection; that is, morning suits with herringbone weave, Prince of Wales weave, etc.
RECOMMENDED ADVANCE TIME
We recommend coming to Old Jeffrey at least 3 weeks in advance. After the week of fittings, we will schedule a new morning suit fitting. If any additional adjustments are required due to the appearance of small wrinkles and in order to "fine-tune" the garment, we would need another week to get the garment perfect.
In general, for this type of morning suit, a single test is almost always enough, however, we always recommend coming to see us with that extra time in case any additional adjustment is needed.
2. JACKET “MADE TO MEASURE” (MTM)
In the service Made to measure Our tailors take measurements with the help of a morning suit called a "witness" which we have digitalized in our central computer and proceed to make the anatomical modifications, modifying this base pattern so that it becomes the exclusive pattern for our client.
In this type of tailcoat, absolutely everything can be customized, the shape and width of the lapels, the model of the pockets, the model of the pants and waistcoat, in addition to choosing all the trimmings, such as the lining, the terry cloth, the buttons and the thread with which said buttons are sewn, as well as embroidering the initials on the inside of the tailcoat.
“MADE TO MEASURE” OPTIONS
There are endless options within our 2-piece morning suit (tailcoat and trousers) and 3-piece morning suit (tailcoat, trousers and waistcoat) styles.
RECOMMENDED ADVANCE TIME
We recommend coming to Old Jeffrey 2 months in advance, as it will take 5 weeks to make the garment and then we will arrange an appointment with the client in our tailor shop for the fitting. There is the possibility of shortening times depending on each case and under specific requests (this should be consulted directly with our tailoring team).
Once the garment is made, we use the first fitting to detect any wrinkles. If any adjustments are required, we would need a week to carry them out.
3. “BESPOKE” MID-COAT
Finally, we present our tailoring line Bespoke, also known as Artisanal Measure.
In this case, our tailors take anatomical measurements directly from the client and design the morning suit with the purest details of traditional bespoke tailoring, that is, hand-made buttonholes and perforations, fully interlined interior without any type of glue or fusion, cupro or viscose linings, plain or printed, etc.
After the cutting process, the pieces are assembled using basting and loose stitches and a first test is done, which we call "plumbing"; at this point, we will have the skeleton of the garment - sleeveless in the case of the frock coat and unfinished lengths and widths in the case of trousers and vest.
Once the fitting test has been carried out, it is our turn: we will work in the workshop to correct details, add the sleeves and finish the garment. Immediately after, the client is called in for a second fitting test and, if there are any additional small details to be corrected, a third final fitting is carried out before delivering the perfect garment to the client.
“BESPOKE” OPTIONS
We work with a prior budget that will be evaluated and notified to the client after their information appointment, during which we will know the design and manufacturing requirements required.
RECOMMENDED ADVANCE TIME
For this type of tailoring we require at least 3 months to have the garments finished since, once we take the measurements, we manually design the client's pattern in our workshop and, subsequently, we carry out the manual cutting of the garment.
DIFFERENCES BETWEEN MADE TO MEASURE AND BESPOKE SERVICES
The difference lies mainly in the tailoring process after the customer's measurements have been taken:
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Preparation of the pattern after taking the client's measurements. In the case of tailoring Made to measure, to obtain the client's pattern we use witnesses with a base pattern with respect to which we make corrections and obtain the client's final pattern. While, in tailoring Bespoke, measurements are taken directly and the pattern is obtained manually and is carried out through calculations and generation of curvatures based on tailor's rules.
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Cutting of the fabric. For tailoring Made to measure, the pattern obtained for each client is digitalized and the scrap of fabric chosen for the production of the garment is cut very precisely by a cutting machine. While in the service Bespoke, our tailor cuts the garment manually.
Garment assembly. In the case of Made To Measure tailoring, our sewing team is made up of 10 people who will carry out the final making of the garment. Each member of the team is specialized in a part of the garment (sleeves, front, etc.) and, finally, the garment is assembled together. In this process, the sewing is mixed (long stitches with a sewing machine and details finished by hand). On the other hand, in the case of Bespoke artisanal tailoring, the entire making will be carried out manually by our specialized tailor.